Hola!
I am sitting in a $35-all-you-can-eat-and-drink ‘VIP lounge’ in Cancun airport as my flight to Gatwick has been delayed by about three hours. I’ve decided to look on the bright side, pick the best bits off the slightly-browning-all-you-can-eat buffet salad and be grateful for the chance to write to you after what feels like a long while.
For the past fortnight, I’ve been away on an impromptu solo trip to Me’ico - in the name of a cat sit in Playa del Carmen, with a bonus extra week in Cancun. This is the first time I have travelled completely alone from start to finish and it’s been quite the adventure.
The highlights
I set out with the intention to spend some quality time with myself and that I certainly did. There have been so many highlights and I will try to remember them all now.
Inadvertently choosing a non-touristic area of Cancun.
So, because I was offered the cat sit around two weeks before actually going away, I did hardly any research at all. I naively envisaged Mexico as spiritual and cultural all over so was slightly disappointed when I saw the reality of Cancun. It’s mostly a modern place geared towards tourism and partying. However, I chose an AirBnB far away from the centre, near a small beach called Playa del Niño and loved being around locals and Mexican tourists, encountering no English speakers at all except on a couple of day trips. From this area, I walked to a beautiful Mayan archaeological site called El Meco and spent a while with the abundance of iguanas while asking the ancient stones to pass on any blessings and wisdoms they wished to share. I also went on a Spanish-speaking-only boat trip from a local restaurant to the incredible Isla Mujeres, which had Mexican tourists only and was a snip compared to the trips geared at Americans and Brits.
A day trip to Chichen Itza
Chichen Itza is one of the seven modern wonders of the world and was top of my list of things I would do while in the Yucatan peninsula. It can get super crowded so I got lucky when my coach trip arrived there an hour before closing when it was far quieter. We had an enthusiastic tour guide who gave great information and I felt I had time to soak in the energy of this sacred place. It was also lovely to connect with two twenty-something British girls on this tour.
The Cenotes
Yucatan peninsula is rife with Cenotes, aka sink holes filled with clear water and inquisitive fish, and day trips often include a Cenote swim. On the Chichen Itza tour, we went to a beautiful outside one and the following day on a trip to Tulum and Coba, we swam in a fresh, underground one. In Playa del Carmen, I went to another one underground on a morning trip and the light trickling through cracks in the ceiling penetrating the depths of the water was completely mesmerising. Just last night, I went to the most beautiful Cenote, deep in the jungle, with a new Mexican friend. The view upwards was thick forest with the last of the day’s sunlight filtering through. Breathtaking.
The food
Of course the food! The best bits were away from the tourist track - from huevos Mexicana as the only person at a beach shack restaurant on my sweaty trek to El Meco to grasshoppers from a bucket on the beach, adorned with spicy sauce and fresh lime. In Cancun, I got a taxi to El Parque de las Palapas which comes alive at night with music and food. Fish tacos with the infamous spicy green Mexican sauce were a taste sensation. Also, there is a Mexican chain called Las Hijas de la Tostada which does all different seafood on crunchy corn tostadas. My favourite was the raw tuna and another; ceviche infused with mango. Making friends with a Mexican local towards the end of my trip meant I also tried Tamales off the beaten track as well as going to a fresh and tasty juice bar with a side of Tacos. For my final breakfast this morning in the touristic Fifth Avenue in PDC, I enjoyed tostadas topped with spicy tomato sauce, ham, cheese, peas and plantain. What I also love about Mexico is most places give you a complimentary massive bag of corn chips with some sort of dip and fresh limes to accompany any meal.
The people
Some days I have felt like crying at the kindness that the people I have encountered have shown to me. I think it touches my heart more when I am alone. On the Spanish-only-speaking boat trip, the multigenerational familias took me under their wing, forcing me to practise my little Spanish. So many people, from those on the boat, to strangers on the beach, offered me beers, bug spray and conversation. On the local beach, children swam up to me in the sea and chattered in Spanish. At the bus stop, strangers helped me with directions and hailing taxis. When some people in the UK heard I was going solo to Mexico, they were concerned for my safety. Apart from one horrible situation with a scam taxi driver, I felt incredibly safe at all times. I left my valuables on the beach while I went for multiple dips in the sea and was never harassed. As a solo traveller, the odd “Hola” “Buenos Tardes” and a smile meant so much to me.
The sea
In the UK, I love swimming in the sea. In Mexico, the warm weather means you can dip in the clear water many times a day and dry off moments later. During this quality time with myself, I have felt comfort from the lapping sound of the waves under the shelter of coconut trees and savoured the feeling of being safe and held by the ocean. I have watched the sun rise over the rippling water and revelled in the colours of the sun setting.
Staying in a luxury Condo and looking after a delightful cat
The reason I ended up in Mexico was because after 20+ UK pet sits in the past three years, I finally made one abroad. In the condo, I had access to two pools, hot tubs, a steam room and a gym. I also had the privilege of looking after an affectionate cat called Tiffany. With every pet sit I do it is a privilege building trust with an animal and as Tiffany was a rescue this was particularly rewarding. An on site gym made me remember how much working out can shake my anxiety.
Mermaid Valley
A lot of Playa del Carmen’s beaches are crowded and touristic but a beauty spot that caught my eye was Valle de Sirenas, aka Mermaid Valley, beyond the Playacar private residences. It took me a few hours to walk there but it was so worth the sweaty, sea dip-infused hot-sand barefoot trek to reach this virgin beach with only lizards and seaweed to keep me company. On that day, I walked more than 11 miles.
The birds and the butterflies
I didn’t want to be away from Tiffany for too long, so in PDC I booked a couple of morning-only trips. One was a birdwatching trip, although I am previously no twitcher. Hilariously, I had managed to book a private birdwatching tour for one with a man in camouflage. Once I managed to work out how to use binoculars properly, we spotted more than 30 species of bird during the four hour trip. Highlights included a couple of Pygmy owls, at least three hummingbirds and a turquoise browed motmot, which has a long tail that swings like the pendulum of a clock. I also loved the plethora of butterflies swirling around us and being in the calm of the forest.
OK, I’m approaching my three hours in the all-you-can-eat lounge so will have to move on so this time round no uplifting stories or features worth sharing. But I have more to say so watch this space for more updates.
Have a good one,
BB x
What an inspirational trip! How great to have such a variety of different experiences: people, history, culture, food, natural world…
This sounds like such an amazing trip! It’s so inspiring to read.